That could be quite a time saver, if I was installing 10-20 lights. Twist-on wire caps The Procedureįor each luminaire I could save over a minute, using push-in wire connectors. I have a feeder (from breaker), a feeder to the next fixture, and a couple pig-tails to connect the lamp holder. The SetupĪs you can see, I set up a typical scenario that electricians have seen many times. I wanted to see how long it would take to wire up a simple luminaire, first with traditional twist-on wire caps, then with push-in wire connectors. I decided to see how much time these things could save me in a typical situation. Now I was satisfied the wires were not going to fall out, and I wasn’t going to burn down the house due to a bad connection. So there should be no worry of resistive heating or arcing with these connectors. When fully inserted into the connectors, the wires make a solid connection. According to Ideal, twisting the wire to release it is a feature, not a bug. Doing so does damage the wire quite badly (you may be able to see the damage if you look closely at the above images), so it would have to be trimmed back and re-stripped before inserting it into a new connector. If you twist the wire back and forth while pulling, the wires will come right out. I did, however, find a way to remove the wires surprisingly easily. So under normal circumstances, you shouldn’t have to worry about a wire slipping out. I yanked, tugged, pried, and pulled to try and get the wires to come out. And let me tell you, they are held in place really well. The bushing (red), the contacts (metallic), and the insulating cover (clear).įrom the side, you can clearly see how the wires are held in place. Once I got these things home, I did the only thing any reasonable and sane DIYer would do: I took one apart to see how they worked.Īs you can see, they’re made up of three parts. I, however, am more open minded, and will try anything that might make a job easier. Most old school electricians hate push connectors, due mostly to the crappy design of the first generation stab connectors on the back of receptacles. 600V maximum building wire, 1000V maximum signs and lighting fixtures.UL 467 Listed for grounding and bonding applications.UL Listed to 486C and CSA Certified to C22.2 #188.Clear shell gives visual verification of connection.Low insertion force for fast and easy connections.No-twist connection reduces repetitive motion fatigue.In-Sure™ Push-In Wire Connectors come in 7 varieties, so selecting the appropriate connector is easy. Using twist-on connectors, you’ll likely have to memorize or reference a combination chart. If you have a 2-port connector, you can connect any combination of 2 #18 AWG to #12 AWG wires. Unlike twist-on wire connectors, it’s easy to remember how many wires can be connected with a single push-in wire connector. With traditional wire caps, the wires would have to be twisted together (mechanically joined) before twisting on the insulating wire cap. When using push-in connectors, the ends of the wires to be joined are stripped and pushed into the connectors. They can be used as an alternative to traditional twist-on wire caps (wire nuts), and require no twisting motion to create a solid connection. Ideal In-Sure™ Push-In Wire Connectors, are devices used for joining two or more wires and insulating those connections. Some may not know what Ideal In-Sure™ Push-In Wire Connectors are used for. Admittedly, I was probably more excited than any grown man should ever be over this sort of thing. I grabbed an assorted 10 pack for ~$2.00, and ran home, filled with the type of excitement only a child feels on Christmas morning when he first lays eyes upon the bounty left by old Saint Nick. After determining they were, I checked the local Home Depot for these things every time I went. A while ago I asked if push-in connectors were up to code.
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